The fruit just goes whoosh right up your nose. Lucky most of you don’t spend half your life doing what I seem to spend most of my time doing – mind you tis quite an enjoyable pastime. Anyway the nose emits sharp gloriously vibrant tropical fruit aromas coupled with spicy musk, citrus lime and lemons as well as green fresh herbs. Lively fresh zesty acidity supports the crisp fruit, nicely so. This is really cool cool climate Savvy Blanc drinking from this respected Orange winery. Winemaker Drew Tuckwell has delivered the goods very neatly here. Try it with pan fried chicken breast stuffed with prosciutto.
Drink Now. About $17. 90/100 – Very Good.
3rd July 2009
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2007
This is a thinking person’s Chardonnay as it makes you consider it from many many angles before you even taste it. Expressive dynamic thoughtful winemaking by Vanya Cullen. Certainly not a peaches and cream type Chardonnay – no instead a tight lean compact intense Chardonnay with a flintiness, citriosity, minerality and yes eventually a good hint of nectarine on the palate, all of it delivered in layers of complexity, revealing itself ever so slowly, one veil at a time and each time telling you a bit more about its story as it develops in the glass and moves along. I like it a lot, a lot of Chardonnay drinkers however may need some extra time to consider it themselves and reach their own verdict. Classy, elegant and refined, I would even say a tad shy or even disconcerted at first, but boy once she is out on the dance floor, well she shines and she becomes the belle of the ball and then there is no stopping her. This is one for the long haul, the bottle says 10 years – I think so myself as it is in its veritable youth right now. Try it with paella with chicken, chorizo, squid, swordfish and crystal bay prawns.
Drink to 2017. About $70. Alc 13.5%. 93-94/100 – Excellent.
2 July 2009
Coriole Sangiovese 2007
Sangiovese like its Spanish counterpart Tempranillo are stylish red varieties that really suit the Australian way of life – their lighter more balanced, more harmonious compositions whilst retaining their fruit character and integrity. Coriole has made and continues to make a very decent Sangiovese here with lots of worthy features showing themselves off through the wine’s presentation. Think cherries, spicy plums, game, a light meaty character, dried herbs and delicate aniseed making for a balanced fruity / savoury medium bodied red. It is fine, stylish, youthful and elegant in its presentation with light oak and very fine grainy tannins. It demands and deserves food such as potato and chorizo frittata.
Drink to 2011. About $17. 89-90/100 – Very Good.
28 June 2009
Allandale Matthew Shiraz 2007
A rich seductive nose from this boutique good value Hunter red. The aromatics are upfront, fresh vibrant and happening. I love the nose on this – it is really inviting; even when pouring it into the glass the glorious fragrances just bound out. Cherries, raspberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, liquorice, light spice, light sweetish coconut oak, a tad of char – the oak and fruit are both there sitting harmoniously together at the moment rather gentlemanly so, saying you go first, no, you go first, and consequently they are well matched in their ongoing journey into their vinous future together. Polished, refined and elegant, this medium bodied red delivers itself beautifully poised on the palate with lingering fine tannins and a deliciousness that augurs for more. I kept upping the score as I drank this. Bill Sneddon is the winemaker, well done Bill. Try it with beef stew with carrots and potatoes.
Drink to 2017. About $20. Alc – 14%. 92-93/100 - Excellent
27 June 2009
Majella Melody Coonawarra Rose 2008
No surprises here that this is full of succulent juicy fruit characters given the powerhouse of fruit that originates normally from the Majella stable of wines. Upfront, even boisterous on the nose, with musk, juicy fruit, lashings of strawberries and cherries, with lively lightly tangy acidity playing a very decent supporting role. Drinkability factor is high, gluggablilty factor is even higher. Try this with Thai stir fried prawns.
Drink Now. About $17. Alc – 13.0%. 88/100 – Very Good.
25 June 2009
Glenpara GSM 2006
A Barossa / Clare Grenache Shiraz Mataro blend. Produced by Kilikanoon Wines from Seppeltsfield vineyard grapes as well as ClareValley stock. The aromatics are stunning and evocative, leaping out of the glass. Deep dark liquorice, a really gameyness, plenty of roasted meats, aniseed, liquorice again, mulberries, spicy plums and deep red cherries. A savoury red with plenty of red and black juicy fruits as well. Medium bodied on the palate with a fineness and lingering fine tannin structure to the end. Inky youthful purple legs pronouncing its veritable youth and auguring for a good future. Really decent blending and very well put together, all providing a lovely smoothness. Alcohol is there but in check. This is a foodie’s wine that could be matched with a myriad of cuisines. I am matching it with gourmet hamburgers.
Drink to 2012. About $25. Alc 15.0%. 91/100 – Excellent.
24 June 2009
Mount Langi Ghiran ”The Gap” Passito Riesling 2006
This is no shrinking violet or wall flower when it comes to dessert wines of substance. It delivers upfront and big-time both aromas and flavours. Aromatic, luscious and intense, deep and robust, the fruit is smooth well rounded, fullsome and long. Dried apricots, candied orange, marmalade, orange peel and a hint of honey all ensue. Figs and raisins also follow. Spice and a light inherent nuttiness as well. Delicious with a light tanginess of acidity as well as a hint of minerality at the end that makes for a well balanced sticky. Try this with oven baked prune and custard pudding.
Drink to 2012 plus. About $22 – 375 ml. Alc 9.5%. 90/100 – Very Good.
Racy, fresh, vibrant, green, lean and upfront, this is a real Hunter Semillon. The fruit is really polished and varietal. Shut your eyes and the nose will hone in on all those classic aromas. The structure is taut and tangy and lingering. I get citrus lemons galore, limes and grapefruit, straw, gooseberry, a hint of honey in the undertones and lovely fresh invigorating toastiness on the finish. Semillon-istes will adore this wine as it encapsulates all that is good with young Semillon, yes I know it’s a 05. But this wine has the goods to really kick goals in the next few years as it develops. At the moment, it can polarise, as it gets on, it will embrace all and sundry, in my humble opinion. Try this with Thai mixed vegetables with tofu.
Drink to 2015. About $36. Alc 11.0%.94/100 – Excellent.
21 June 2009 (am edition)
Tyrrell’s Wines Vat 8 Hunter Shiraz 2006
Described as a modern style of Hunter Shiraz on the bottle and I tend to agree. Classy and fulsome are my initial descriptors along with hints of game, truffles, black olives, earth, quite discernable dried mixed herbs, raspberries, plums and blackberries, indeed all in all, making for a complex, layered and sophisticated nose. Smooth, long, refined and well balanced on the palate with no edges just those long smooth inviting lingering flavours. A beautifully poised red that make a statement in itself. Not over the top in oak, alcohol or even fruit profile at that. Indeed everything is in check and that is why it delivers on all fronts so well. A delicious wine to savour with a neat piece or two of stilton or aged cheddar.
Drink to 2016. About $59. Alc – 13.5%. 94/100 – Excellent.
20 June 2009
Kay Brothers Amery Basket Pressed Shiraz 2006
The aromatics are just glorious. The deep ripe plums and the intoxicatingly seductive cherries just ooze from the glass, wafting through the air. Think also crushed pepper, allspice, raspberries, a light eucalyptus and aniseed, liquorice and mocha oak, wow, what a nose. Yes the alcohol is there, yes the oak is also taking its place, but the polished and stylish fruit is what is providing the wow factor. Smooth, well rounded and long in mouth feel, the cherries and plums and blackberries play their starring and supporting roles very well. A savoury red wine in one dimension, yet as I say retaining and maintaining that lovely fruit character on the other. Drink this with Provencal beef stew.
Drink to 2016. About $25 (and value at that). Alc 15.5%. 93/100 – Excellent.
19 June 2009
Primo Estate La Biondina Colombard 2008
Colombard is in. Says who. Says me. Why aren’t we growing (and producing) more Colombard I ask. Anyway hats off to Joe Grilli for this juicy fresh invigorating uplifting white from South Australia that will certainly brighten up your dreary Winter Friday night. Gushy fresh juicy fruit (as in chewing gum), musk, tropical fruits, think pineapple and uplifted guava - the aromatics just linger majestically. Dry fresh lively acidity complements the delicious fruit and gives the wine the backbone it needs to complement Asian cuisine. Plant more Colombard I say and bring me more. Try it with Friday night takeaway, say salt and pepper calamari as well as combination chow mein. An eminently gluggable wine.
Drink Now. Value plus at about $15. Alc 12.5%. 92/100 – Excellent.
16 June 2009 (pm edition)
Grant Burge Meshach 2004
Deep, dark, dense and opulent, even mysteriously so. Brooding yet also evocative, spruiking its far ranging characters in all directions. A superb red wine, one with loads of panache and class and style. Not just smooth long ripe deep fruit, no, it is imparted with elegance and a fine structure. Glossy oak, ripe blackberries, rich plums, deep red cherries, liquorice and chocolate, primary characters, all standing up, at attention and ready to take their place. The overall mouth feel is succulent, round, enveloping and delicious. This is a wine that you want to create something special to drink with. Luxuriant, far reaching and ever evolving in the glass, it delivers in all dimensions. Try this with home made slow cooked beef and field mushroom pie.
Drink to 2019. About $135. 95/100 – Superb.
14 June 2009 (am edition)
Fox Creek McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz 2006
Gold are my first words, actually my first word. I like this wine very muchly, a nice turn of phrase if I say so myself. It really takes me places where I like to be. Ripe fruit, smooth oak, long tannins, alcohol there but in check, seamlessness and eminent drinkability – yes a buzz word, well two, of mine lately but one that hits the mark re this top shelf red. I never really know what to expect when I see “Reserve” on a label, but here I am truly in a higher place. Fruit, purity and with elegance, oak, coconutty so and glossy, integrated and longishly so. Ripe soft tannins, fine and lingering on and on. Plums, fruit cake, more plums, blackberries, light forest floor, black liquorice and lightish tobacco. A youthful red still at that and one that is going to improve over time. Really decent drinking with slow cooked lamb, carrots, potatoes and pearl barley. Top shelf wine.
Drink to 2020. About $70. Alc 14.5%. 95/100 – Superb.
13 June 2009
Pike & Joyce Adelaide Hills Pinot Gris 2008
The Pikes and the Joyces really knew what they were doing here when they put together this snazzy dry white. The fruit comes from Lenswood in the Adelaide Hills. It really delivers cool climate elegant classy citrus fruit – think crisp green apples, cool lemons and ripe limes with a minerally even chalky edge to it as well. The acidity is there, nicely imparted counterbalancing the fruit just neatly. Soft pears and light lemons on the finish make it glorious drinking with stir fried beef, broccolini and shitake mushrooms.
Drink to 2011. About $23. Alc – 13.0%. 90/100 – Very Good.
12 June 2009
Lindemans Pyrus 2005
Drinkability is one of those key words I look for in a wine. What does that mean you ask? Well it’s about the important aspects of the wine coming in a way that makes it approachable to drink at the time of opening it. So balance is an important part of this equation, as too much ripe fruit or too much oak, may swing it one way or another. This red blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec ticks my boxes in the drinkability stakes. Smooth elegant polished red and black fruits come shining through the aromas, along with classic cigar box nuances, well they are more than nuances, more like discernable oak. The fruit is vibrantly imparted with a pure character to it. Medium bodied, refined and balanced on the palate with lovely blackcurrants, black olives, plums, mulberries and prunes following on. Smooth tannins also augur for a good future. A delight with pot roasted beef with fresh herbs. Oh and highly drinkable!
Drink to 2015 plus. About $45. 93/100 – Excellent.
8 June 2009
Juniper Estate Semillon 2007
The smooth lightly creamy lineal nature of this Margaret River Semillon makes it highly drinkable. The soft acidity just adds further to the green herbs, lemony citrus, apples and pears that all make their way to the palate. A well structured food friendly white that is travelling with age very well. True to its origins, it delivers on all counts. Try this with Chinese vegetables and fried tofu.
Drink to 2012. About $22. 91/100 – Excellent.
6 June 2009
Devil’s Lair Cabernet Merlot 2006
Refined, classy and imparting finesse and style from its first moment of appearance, this wine puts you on notice something good is coming. And boy does it deliver the goods. The red and black fruits as well as cedary oak all intertwine beautifully on the nose with a classic complex character. Vibrant polished fruit at that with soft mellow yet lively mouth feel. The palate is delicious and quite taut. The tannins are fine and integrated. The oak is still there however making its presence felt along with blackcurrants, plums and cherries and a good dose of choc-mint as well. Cool and inspiring, a highly drinkable and highly enjoyable red to drink. Try with slow cooked Greek lamb and lemon potatoes.
Lie back and think you are in the tropics. Smell the pineapples, guavas, melons, mangos and coconuts and that for a start is the aroma profile of this wine. For cool climate Beechworth, the nose is quite fulsome, perfumed and advanced. Vibrant, spicy, even a bit leesy, the nose and then palate is classic peach melon and tropical fruits. Soft lightly creamy acidity albeit with a light tanginess at the end along with smooth cashew oak. Delicious, easy drinking with Indian cuisine.
Drink Now to 2011. Alc 14.0%. About $25. 92/100 – Excellent.
