This matched up a treat with some grilled haloumi cheese and then some shoulder of lamb greek style the other night. It was indeed one of those divine pairings of food and wine, the food and wine carrying through together from course to course, versatile and adaptive with the overall synergy making each even better. Blood fire engine red, the colour just dazzles and you swirl it round and round until it looks like a siren on that fire truck. You can tell the fire-fighter in me comes out on these occasions. Anyway this has fun and unpretentious written all over it and I thoroughly enjoyed it with my meal. The time in the bottle has only mellowed it out nicely with a smoothness and softness that just delights.
Drink to 2011. About $20. 92/100 – Excellent.
Five Oaks Yarra Merlot 2008
It’s trendy to bag Merlot in wine writing circles. It’s not that it’s a really hard wine to make, it’s just that it seems really good Merlots seem to be few and far between. In reality we should be making plenty of Merlots and it suits our warmer climate and compliments the vast range of cuisines we have out there in the land of Oz. Ask me to name my top 10 Merlots and regrettably I struggle with the rest of my wine scribe mates. Plummy succulent luxuriant fruit, fine tannins, lightly imparted oak, not jammy but not lean green either, this one by Wally Zuk hits my mark. Nice drinking with oven baked pizza on a hot rock, black olives and anchovies.
Drink Now to 2013. Alc 14.5%. About $30. 89-90/100 – Very Good.
Flaxman Wines Riesling 2007
The time in my cellar has only accentuated what is an excellent Riesling. I like the subtlety and poise of it, soft – aromatic, lightly rich, mellow yet defined in its flavour profile and the direction it is taking in its development. You get ripe apples, nashi pears, light tropical notes and yet also a liveliness along with a seamless length. Its marriage with food, just lifts it again to another level. Try it with seafood stew.
Drink to 2015. About $25. Alc 12.5%. 91/100 – Excellent.
Patina Sticky Tea Riesling 2009
This is a dessert wine that came into being almost accidentally out of the efforts of winemaker Gerald Naef. The lightness is the drawcard for me, it just goes places where other more substantial dessert wines can only dream of. I like the synergies of the fruit imparted ever so fragrantly and subtly and yet with commensurate acidity and backbone, lifting it on the palate but not in an assertive way. Just perfect with fruit tarts and custard, the lingering long flavours just marry so well with the custard and tartness of the strawberries and kiwifruit. Something different and really appealing.
Drink Now. About $22 for 375ml. 7.6%. 90/100 – Very Good.
Red Hill Estate Chardonnay 2008
This wine makes a statement in its presentation. Good solid fresh lively true to its varietal roots and reflecting the cool climate elegance of the Mornington Peninsula. I like the way it carries its fresh figs, sweet melon and succulent peaches across the line in a way that shows off the fruit nicely yet with a nice cut and edge to it through the fresh lively acidity and the marrying of cashew oak, lightly spiced as well. Long and luxuriant, lightly creamy and rich in mouthfeel, this Chardonnay does it for me. Try it with grilled marinated chicken.
13.6%. About $20. Drink to 2014. 92/100 - Excellent
Dominique Portet Gippsland Pinot Noir 2009
This is stunning Pinot Noir, one of the best I have tried in ages. I couldn’t tell you the last one I had that smelt and tasted this good. Everything in it just comes together so well. Balance, style and finesse all in one. Fresh strawberries, light rhubarb, invigorating cherries, spicy cinnamon, rose petals and truffle. A clear fruit focus however yet with a spicy edginess, measured subtle oak, light right tannins, a seamless delivery but all in line and sync with continuing flowing stunning Pinot aromas. Ben and Dominique Portet take a bow, this is a classic Pinot Noir in every sense.
About $40. 13.0%. Drink to 2016. 95/100 – Superb.
Nazaaray Pinot Gris 2009
This is very decent Pinot Gris, and I don’t say that often. It’s easy and trendy to bag Pinot Gris, sometimes deservedly, sometimes without any real justification. But seriously when it comes off well, it is a very food friendly and delicious white wine. I like the integrity of the style in this one, French, with good varietal features, a subtle yet delicious creaminess and richness, yet also underpinned with a decent structure. Spicy cinnamon apples, zesty lemons, limes, and classic pears on the nose. Lingers with liveliness and freshness on the palate with a smoothness as well as tanginess right to the end. Try it with warm potato salad.
Drink to 2012. About $30. 91/100 – Excellent.
Printhie MCC Shiraz Viognier 2008
Spicy blue fruits everywhere on the aromas, youthful, vibrant and even exuberant. Ample bodied yet with an elegantness that allows drinkability to be most pleasurable now and enough pique of interest to allow for dropping a few bottles into the cellar as well. Cool climate Orange comes through the spicy plums, blueberries and light mulberries, giving it an edginess to it all. The Viognier adds a silkiness to the overall structure. Medium dry with lashings of liquorice and mixed herbs, cloves to the end. One for the winter Irish stew. ps MCC stands for Mount Canobolas Collection.
About $35. Alc 14.%. 91/100 - Excellent
Maygars Hill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Made from grapes and from a boutique winery in the Strathbogie region in Victoria, is this distinctive fulsome concentrated red wine, with a few years under its belt. Not that it shows in any demonstrable way upon tasting as what impresses is the stunning freshness and purity of the red and blackfruits that come through very decently in a youthful vibrant manner. Black liquorice, black olive and tea leaf come through in a savoury line, making this a deliciously drinking wine. Its tannins are there, fine and grainy, the spicy oak also is integrating well and taking a back seat to the fruit, but imparting its stamp and character. Has plenty of steam left in it. Try with a robust slow grilled bbq steak.
Drink to 2015. About $34. Alc 14.0%. 91/100 – Excellent.
Tintilla Estate Cuvee Premium John Basil Sparkling Red 2006
Don’t expect sweet intense ripe fruit here. The savoury dimension is well and truly taking centre stage here. You get firm, tight, dry sparkling red with classic blackberries, liquorice, aniseed, plums, and dark sour cherries from this 100% Merlot. Made the traditional way of fermentation in the bottle, the palate delivers an array of interesting flavours, black fruit dominant along with forest floor, earthy and black olive nuances.
About $36. Alc - 13.5%. Drink to 2014.
Postcode 2587 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
What I like about this wine is its immediate appeal and overall drinkability. Its youthfulness counterbalances very well with a sense of palate maturity on the other hand. Classic robust spicy plums and black fruits come through the aromas, countenanced with liquorice, aniseed and dark chocolate. Polished, delicious and pure and spicy and developing to its core roots as Cabernet, I thoroughly enjoyed drinking this red that originates from Kingsvale in the Hilltops region of South West NSW. Made by Rhys Eather of Meerea Park fame, it delivers on all levels. Try with osso buco.
14.5%. About $22. Drink to 2013. 91/100 – Excellent.
Jeanneret Clare Valley Denis Shiraz 2004
This has thrown a nice crust, compliments also by my cellaring efforts, almost certainly because I have taken a while to get to reviewing this very decent red. Having said that the time hasnt done anything to it and the developing secondary characters are just so spot on for a Clare red of this statuture. Liquorice, developing aniseed, a gaminess, an earthy forest floor litany of forest fruits make up what we are seeing, smelling and tasting right now, augured by coffee oak, fine tannins, a smooth richness and ripeness that is inherently so and this red also has a savoury dimension to it as well that makes it an interesting wine. This Shiraz still has some good years left on it, so a few more years in the cellar will bring out some more in it but it is certainly drinking well now.
Try with grilled aged steak. 15.0%. $45. To 2015. 92/100 – Excellent
Rosnay Sparkling Rose 2009
Rosnay make organic wines out of their Central NSW establishment. The freshness lightness and vigour in the fruit really reflect out of the wine’s character. Sparkling Rose` is an interesting variant and it comes off neatly here with classic flavours, crisp fresh acidity and a dryness on the finish. Don’t expect lashings of sweet ripe fruit even though it is made from Shiraz and Mourvedre fruit, instead the subtleties of the wine is what does the talking.
A rose` made from three Italian grape varieties – Sangiovese, Dolcetto and Sagrantino, from this King Valley Victorian producer. Love the glorious fire engine red colour that when swirled spins eloquently round the glass providing a dazzling effect. Full of berries on one level, soft and dry in another dimension, a perfect addition to the end of a hot humid day.
It’s that time if the year where I am happy to make some Wine of the Year type calls. And I reckon the Pinot Gris of the year type contender is one that well and truly deserves that accolade. Anyway I love this Pinot Gris. Why – well a couple of reasons – one it is varietally perfect – which is damn hard for Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. Two, it is just so hard to make a really top notch Pinot Gris that sticks true to its roots and has popular appeal and that perfect sense of balance. The opulence of this Gris is just so right. Impressive delicious polished and pure, the aromas and flavours are classically so. Think perfumed musk, lychee, pears, light tropical fruit, hints of spice and a delicious array of overall fruit flavours – delicious, balanced, smooth and soft, beautifully poised and balanced to the very end. Big words, big call but as far as I am concerned – totally justified.
Food Match: Grilled pork ribs. Drink Now: to 2012. About $28. Alc: 12.8%. Rating: 95/100 – Superb.
Lenton Brae Southside Chardonnay 2008
Ed Tomlinson is the winemaker of this respectable well crafted Margaret River Chardonnay. I love the judicious use of oak, there is new and old in this but it is done so beautifully and the way that the fruit does all the talking yet not so much so that it dominates the conversation, really gets my attention. Light, delicate and fragrant, the aromas are entrancing and charming. Classic nectarine, tangy lemon and melon subsume the senses, with style and grace and deliver onto the palate. Delightful drinking with soft acidity and a light creamy finish that adds to the experience. I think the balance is post on and that’s what really captivates you all the way through. Oh and for around $20, this is value drinking.
Food Match: bruschetta. Alc: 13.5%. Drink: Now to 2013. Rating: 91-92/100 – Excellent.
Anderson Cellar Block Methode Champenoise Shiraz 2002
Boutique Rutherglen hand picked and basket press award winning Sparkling Shiraz, aged at that – all of which are enough to pique my attention.The ripe rich solid robust fruit just resonates from this sparkling red. Think blackberries, more blackberries then spicy plums. Coming from fruit from dry land vineyards, the richness and flavour is just full on, but in a sparkling wine, just so right. Balanced, seamless, creamy (and a tightness as well inherent in the aromas but as I said creamy on the palate) and evolving, this sparkling just flows and flows on the palate. Intense deep and concentrated, it just drinks so velvety and fulsomely on the palate. Delicious long and lingering on the finish, it goes on forever. The age of the fruit and the character of its overall development just adds layers of complexity such as intricate mocha oak, that make the wine ever so complex and ever so interesting to drink.
Food Match: Roast turkey. Drink: Now to 2017. Price: About $49. Alc: 14.5%. Rating: 93/100 - Excellent
Robert Stein Riesling 2009
This is up there in the top quality Riesling stakes. From the Mudgee region ofNSW, Robert Stein has crafted this beautifully drinking Riesling that is spot on in all of its dimensions. Classic pure lime cordial, aromatically ripe yet with enough soft refreshing crisp acidity to really set it self off and show off all its attributes. A creamy delicious finish just adds to all the good things about this Riesling. The bottle emptied around me in remarkably quick time, which is always a pretty good indicator of quality, and at this price, it won’t break the bank either. Estate grown and produced at the winery at Mudgee.
Shelmerdine Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2008. Intensely fragrant – the purity oozes out of the glass. Real Yarra Valley classic Pinot Noir here, concentrated yet delivered with refinement and finesse. The aromatics here are just glorious, they subsume the senses and are juts gorgeously Pinot in character. The fruit sourced from the Lusatia Park Vineyard in the Upper Valley takes the centre stage well and truly with an authorativeness. Think truffles, forest floor, cherries, cinnamon spice and light spicy plums all make their appearance. Light and delicate on the palate, the purity of the fruit is delivered with restraint and yet with an underlying power. Quite soft and mellow on the palate, it tastes so lovely and smooth and even creamy, with soft smooth acidity. The tannins are ultrafine and integrated. This is a Pinot that holds it own very well. Well done Stephen Shelmerdine.
Food Match: Penne with tomato and black olives. Drink to 2012 .Price: About $34. Closure: Screwcap. Alc: 13.0%. Rating: 92/100 – Excellent
Marlargo Riverina Petit Verdot 2007
The “gracefully out there” label on the front of this wine really draws you into it. Funky, hip and groovy it is and it has that “I wanna know more about this wine” ness to it as well as finding out who did the artwork (Sharon Wedel). The wine marketing people out there will love me for saying this, but seriously when it sits in the bottle shop with hundreds of others around it, the eye catching label should at least mean that the wine consumer should evoke more than a cursory glance towards it. Attention seeking over, then it is over to the winemaker to complete the deal. Anyway the wine is decent, elegant and not in an your face style, despite its origins of the Riverland. Sure it is fruit driven, gloriously plummy, but there is more to it than this. A lovely restrained spiciness adds to the fruit dimensions. The oak is subdued and subsumed well into the fruit. Plums, blackberries and sour black cherries imparted softly on the palate yet with good cedary oak along with it, leaving well rounded tannins to linger on and on.
Try this with bbq pork ribs. Drink to 2014. About $20. Alc 14.5%. 90/100 – Very Good.
