The word classic is overused in wine writing. I certainly have done my share and probably more than my share of describing a wine as a classic in my time. Classic this, classic that, makings of a classic, this is classic drinking and so on and on. But seriously this Margaret River Chardonnay is just that. Classic wine, classic drinking and a classic MR Chardonnay that will be so for quite few years to come. And yes I whilst I do have other words in my wine vocabulary to describe it I shall choose not to in this case. Hand picked, minimal intervention, low yields for the purists, for the hedonists I tell you it is pure indulgence and luxuriant drinking. Try it with a homemade butter chicken.
14.0%. Drink to 2013. About $33. 92-93/100 – Excellent.
Cullen Mangan 2008
Vanya Cullen really does blending ever so well and here this mix of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, is done just so effortlessly that it just subsumes the senses and palate, not in an intense or substantive way, but rather with subtly, refinement and elegance. I like the wine’s lightness, integrated parts, seamlessness and lineal delivery in mouthfeel. Purity of fruit is accentuated, winemaking skills in imparting the oak treatment just right and a restraint and underlying sense of power inherent in the fruit that will evolve in its own way to define its Margaret River origins and the Cullen brand of synergy over the next dozen years or so. The only problem I have with it is that I imagine it will be very difficult to keep this in the cellar for the fruits of time to take effect as opposed to the dining table. Buy lots of it I say to solve this problem and avoid disappointment. Really top shelf winemaking here folks.
Drink to 2018. Alc 13.0%, spot on. About $45. 95/100 – Superb.
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2008
This is more fullsome than I expected. I suppose I should learn to keep an open mind when assessing wines I know well, but there is less refineness and elegance here and more substance and gravitas in turn than I am used to with this stalwart white. It makes it no less as one of Australia’s leading Chardonnay’s at the end of the day, the difference is ultimately difference in it very self. More butterscotch, more cashew oak, more lusciousness, evolving and enveloping succulent classic lightly tangy varietal fruit, still pure, fresh and invigorating but with more oomph and vigour to it overall. Creamy lightly rich even essences of honey, the palate still dazzles and tantalises with deliciousness. I like it and reference it in my own wine catalogue wine mind as an older fashioned Chardonnay sort of way but yet at the same time modern influences emerging. It has a future to it that will develop upon the fruit maturity that is already evolving now. Try it with crayfish.
Drink to 2014. About $75. Alc 14.0%. 94/100 – Excellent.
O’Leary Walker Claire Reserve Shiraz 2006
I think this classic Australian wine typifies how good Shiraz can be, especially from the Clare Valley and even more so from the dynamic O’Leary Walker duo. In a relatively short time, this red has made its mark on the Australian wine landscape as one of its most respected reds and Shirazes. For me it is two things that make it especially so, the richness and ripeness of the fruit, from over 100 year old vines, and its overall elegance as well. You see the oak is youthful sweet and spicy, the tannins seamless ripe and integrated, the overall structure however makes for drinkability now with its overall smoothness in mouthfeel, velvety so and lingering long and on and on. Liquorice, chocolate and lush black forest cake on the palate just draws you in. This will develop very nicely with time. Try it with slow roasted Greek lamb.
Alc 14.5%. Drink to 2021. About $100. 95/100 – Superb.
Howard Park Great Southern Chardonnay 2009
Stunning. Superb. Exceptional. Just right. Spot on. Immaculate drinking. And so on and so on. You get the drift, this is special Chardonnay drinking. Crafted beautifully with the polished Chardonnay fruit making a classy classic entry, elegance and refinement the major hallmarks. Yet with evolving time in the glass, the aromas dazzle even more and bedazzle the senses. Peach melon, a swirl of butterscotch and fresh figs all make their presence felt. The acidity and overall structure however along with subtle lineal spicy oak add overall to its gravitas and poise, ensuring one does not dominate another. Long smooth supple and luxuriant in mouthfeel, the length is so distinct in its counterbalance of flavour and structure and finish. Beautiful drinking and value plus. Try this with lobster mornay. nb This will be released in October 2010.
$38. Drink to 2015. 13.5%. 96-97/100 – Superb/ Exceptional.
Kreglinger Brut De Blancs 2003
Made from predominantly Chardonnay grapes and with a small part of it having undertaken malo, this sparkling wine is just delicious drinking with its tight elegant bubbles and the fruit delivering glorious richness and succulence in its palate delivery and overall mouthfeel. Peach melon and tropical fruits luxuriate all over and deliver a refined but yet substantial sparkling of gravitas and all with a freshness and liveliness that is countenanced with a developed tasty and honeyed element as well. One for now as much as one for later. Try it with smoked salmon bruschetta.
12.5%. About $65. Drink Now to 2013. 94/100 – Excellent.
Dominique Portet Gippsland Pinot Noir 2009
This is stunning Pinot Noir, one of the best I have tried in ages. I couldn’t tell you the last one I had that smelt and tasted this good. Everything in it just comes together so well. Balance, style and finesse all in one. Fresh strawberries, light rhubarb, invigorating cherries, spicy cinnamon, rose petals and truffle. A clear fruit focus however yet with a spicy edginess, measured subtle oak, light right tannins, a seamless delivery but all in line and sync with continuing flowing stunning Pinot aromas. Ben and Dominique Portet take a bow, this is a classic Pinot Noir in every sense.
About $40. 13.0%. Drink to 2016. 95/100 – Superb.
Penfolds RWT Shiraz Barossa Valley 2007
Sometimes words can’t really express how good a wine is. It is about how you feel afterwards rather than describing it to all and sundry whilst drinking it. This is Penfolds red wine through and through. I could blind taste this as a Penfolds red any day, well you know what I mean, but ask me to give it the right words it deserves to describe it justly and I struggle to find new ones that warrant the superbness and exceptional nature of it. Special yes, but a wine that delivers so well on so many levels. Anyway here goes, randomly and in no particular order, purity, vibrancy and freshness yet a polishedness to it as well that says its different, up there and special, the liqueryness of the fruit, the blackberry, cherry, mulberry and plums all flow through but in a tightly held manner, not ripe, not overly so, not all over the place, but divinely so reflecting its quality and Barossa origins and yet the fruit is only one of a team of players at work, making this wine what it is. The oak, spicy, intricately imparted and just right. The tannins and acidity seamlessly so. Delicious, balanced, luxuriant and rewarding in all dimensions, a pleasure to drink imbibe, pontificate over and ultimately cherish afterwards. Nice wine, special stuff. Gee I enjoy drinking and writing about wines like this. Try it with lamb shanks, slow cooked.
14.5%. About $175. Drink to 2022 plus. 96-97/100 – Exceptional.
St Henri Shiraz 2006
Restrained, subdued, tight and unyielding at first, this classic Penfolds red was slow off the starting block, making little fuss about its own appearance onto the centre stage. Spicy, persistent and concentrated fruit unwinds, building upon itself, solid, thick and muscular in its potential and yet quite elegant and refined in its current style. Promises much but is delivering measuredly and carefully so. Black olives, crushed pepper, raspberry and cherry along with prune and liquorice as well light earth and underlying oak that integrates well overall delivering balanced drinking. Fine tannins augment its overall character. One to keep an eye out over the next few years. Try it with beef cheeks.
14.5%. Drink to 2018-20. About $90. 92-93/100 – Excellent.
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
All around me spoke highly of this red. Comments of spot on, very drinkable, balanced and ripe and fullsome filled the room. The drink now factor is truly here for this esteemed Australian red. It delivers smooth long ripe concentrated sweetish well rounded fullsome fruit driven flavours now and captures the senses beautifully. The tannins are smooth and ripe, the oak is well balanced and pairs with the fruit really well. The drinkability is high and the red and black berry fruits are delicious. Elegance refinement and class also play their part in making this an excellent red, with no discernable leaness nor that cigar box oak character which imparts MR Cabernet. Currants fresh and with a light lift of spice follow through right to the end of the finish, waiting for the next glass to arrive and make its presence felt. Drink with pasta with eggplant and peas sauce.
Drink to 2015. About $110. 14.5%. 94/100 – Excellent.
Brokenwood Maxwell Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon 2005
Sourced from 30 year old vines from the Brokenback Range in the Hunter Valley, this aged Semillon is really hitting its straps. The dryness, lightness and herbal notes are complemented by the vigour of an inherent light nuttiness and spicy character,that then shows off the developed citrine flavours – lemons, limes, and green apple, fragrantly so, all coming through fulsomely and softer and later yet ever so flavoursome on the palate. The underlying honey, toastiness and nutty flavours, makes for beautiful drinking. Try this with ravioli with wild mushrooms.
11.0%. About $35. Drink to 2015. 93-94/100- Excellent.
Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
A superb red that comes from low yielding old vine Cabernet grown in the Great Southern and Margaret River regions of Western Australia. The aromas are restrained tight, youthful and energetic in the same breath. The spicy oak is there prounounced, and is edgy. The tannins are young and quite assertive. Classic Cabernet with blackcurrants, mulberries, light mint, spicy charred plums, and deep sour cherries. A stylsih wine, dry and evolving with time in the glass, indeed it really dazzled on the second day. It drinks long and fulsome on the palate and lingers on and on at the end.
Food Match: Greek lamb.
Alc: 14%.
RRP: $85.
Cellar: Drink Now to 2022.
Rating: 95/100 – Superb.
Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2004
This Semillon has the wow factor written all over it. Iain Riggs and team take a bow, this is the real deal when it comes to Hunter Semillon and one of the best and well balanced and highly drinkable ones I’ve tasted in ages. No sharp corners, no overdone fruit oh and no oak either. This Semillon delivers class and elegance yet also gravitas and an inherent substantiveness. I mean the lightly spicy nose, the toastiness, the light nuttiness and the subtle and appropriate development you would expect from a near 6 year old white, balanced and imparted beautifully through its aromas and mouth feel. Yes the classic lemons and citriosity at there, but they are complex and intricate, commensurate with a wine of great character and complexity. Watch this space I say and keep drinking the stuff this Summer and Autumn and Winter. Top shelf Hunter Semillon.
Food Match: crab crakes
Alc: 11.5%
RRP:$45
Drink to 2019 plus.
Rating: 95-96/100 - Superb
Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2008
Poised, elegant and classy – unsurprising words to describe a Cape Mentelle wine eh?, but seriously this delivers in such a polished and refined way and yet delivers its substance with such clarity as well. Yes there is classic fruit, yes there is a fair bit of oak, but it is melded together in a way that adds to the wine’s overall synergy than in any distractive sense. Drinking superbly now, it delivers along with a underpinned minerality as well as a smoothness all the way to the last taste. A moreish Margaret River white.
Food Match: Seafood risotto
Alc: 13.0%
RRP: $42
Cellar: Drink Now to 2014.
Rating: 93-94/100 – Excellent.
Moss Wood Chardonnay 2008
The nose is perfumed tropical fruit, mango, banana, guava and pineapple, along with classic peach melon, mellow soft yet with discernible oak, not overly distracting but there making its statement. The acidity is soft and well rounded, the alcohol is there with good legs on the glass, the mouth feel luxuriant, delicious and smooth and long and lingering. A stylish Margaret River Chardonnay with substance class and gravitas. Drinking seamlessly now and with a good future ahead of it. On its second day of tasting you get lovely soft butterscotch textures that just add. Another excellent wine from the Moss Wood stable.
Food Match: Chicken stuffed with mango
Alc: 14.5%
RRP: $55
Cellar: Now to 2014.
Rating: 92/100- Excellent.
Yarrabank Cuvee 2005
This is produced in an ongoing joint venture between Champagne Veuve A. Devaux and Yering Station in the Yarra Valley and is made in the traditional method, using a complex winemaking which takes at least 4 years to complete. Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes and hand picked to ensure the right balance, this is a very classy and elegant sparkling of substance and character. The citrine influences are strong and firm, tight, lively and evolving yet on the palate deliver with a richness and stature as well as crisp acidity that delivers in the flavour and drinkability stakes.
Food Match: crisp pork belly.
Drink: to 2015.
Price: About $38
Rating: 93/100 – Excellent.
Lerida Estate Lake George Pinot Gris 2009
It’s that time if the year where I am happy to make some Wine of the Year type calls. And I reckon the Pinot Gris of the year type contender is one that well and truly deserves that accolade. Anyway I love this Pinot Gris. Why – well a couple of reasons – one it is varietally perfect – which is damn hard for Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. Two, it is just so hard to make a really top notch Pinot Gris that sticks true to its roots and has popular appeal and that perfect sense of balance. The opulence of this Gris is just so right. Impressive delicious polished and pure, the aromas and flavours are classically so. Think perfumed musk, lychee, pears, light tropical fruit, hints of spice and a delicious array of overall fruit flavours – delicious, balanced, smooth and soft, beautifully poised and balanced to the very end. Big words, big call but as far as I am concerned – totally justified.
Food Match: Grilled pork ribs
Drink Now: to 2012.
About $28
Alc: 12.8%
Rating: 95/100 – Superb.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate The Gables Cabernet Shiraz 2006
This one passed the vox populi test well and truly. Indeed the talking was minimal other than unanimous approval through head nodding and appreciative gestures. The drinking indeed was where it was happening for everyone, the view being seamless delicious drinking – a wine that delivers fruit, oak and overall flavour in balanced proportions. Made from selected parcels of premium Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz and crafted in the finest of blending traditions and styles, the result is seamless long and velvety red wine that just glides down the throat. Serious, generous and open in style, the fruit does the talking, the oak married is in very well, the tannins ripe, the alcohol is in sync and a balance that makes it all so worth while drinking. The blackcurrants, blueberries, spicy plums and liquorice all make their appearance and make their mark. A wine for the people to be enjoyed and relished on a special occasion.
Food Match: Wagyu beef pie
Alc: 14.0%
Drink: Now to 2021
Winemaker: Sue Hodder
Price: $45
Rating: 94/100 – Excellent.
Tyrrell’s Wines Belford Semillon 2004
Dry grown on the Elliot family vineyard. Brilliantly clear lemon yellow. Complex, vibrant, spicy and attractive on the nose with a glorious intense long ranging set of classic Semillon aromas. A stylish white wine results developing well on one hand yet with the retaining of youthfulness despite its 5 years of age. Medium dry with a lovely mouth feel on the palate, it is ample bodied Semillon, but with no oak and yet it delivers those classic Hunter varietal and regional features. Lemon, limes, grapefruit and apples all make their presence felt. A toastiness still supports in there with the fruit line, along as well with crisp acidity on the finish. This is still in its veritable youth and has ages of cellaring capacity on it. It also has a stack of respectable labels on the bottle for its awards, ones that based on its current drinking, it well and truly deserves.
Food Match: grilled barramundi
Drink: Now to 2014.
Alc: 11.0%
Price: About $30
Rating: 93/100 – Excellent.
Willow Creek Vineyard Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2008
A cool climate Chardonnay with a definite wow factor to it. Geraldine McFaul is the new winemaker for the label crafting her impeccable touch to these wines from Willow Creek with Robbie O’Leary in charge of the vineyard. Tight, a touch unyielding and yet overall elegant at opening, you get class and finesse in its overall structure, Chablis style, but then it evolves in complexity over time in the glass, to become an even better belle of the ball. Gorgeous fruit, pure and stylish. What evolves is classic Chardonnay, mineral and flinty in its inherentness, but yet at the same time followed by classic nectarine, almond meal, spicy cashews, melon and light butterscotch. There is also a tempered leesiness that adds beautifully to the wine’s overall complexity. The oak is lightly spicy, there, unapologetic influential but not the over the top by any means. Yes it plays a supporting role, and one that augurs well for the future. The oak is glossy, the fruit is abundant fresh fulsome, the acidity soft and welcoming and yet it is still overall elegant and one classy drop. Excellent imbibing here folks and full marks to the team at Willow creek – I’m on board! Watch this space.
Food Match: Lobster Mornay
Alc: 13.5%
Price: About $40
Drink: Now to 2013
Rating: 95/100 - Superb.
Juniper Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2008
I’m impressed. This is a stunning Chardonnay from Juniper Estate. It just delivers so perfectly in all its dimensions so well. The fruit is tantalising – its classic nectarine with lemon sherbet essences, tropical fruit notes are just classic and this is accompanied with an overall tightness of cashew oak, lightly spiced at that. Creamy soft yet with a neat tanginess at the rear, the purity of the fruit really sets itself off in a polished elegant way. The length goes forever, and the flavours are dynamic, active and ongoing. I thoroughly enjoyed this Chardonnay and so did all around me!
Food Match: Prawns in a creamy sauce.
Alc: 14.0%.
Price: $35.00.
Winemaker: Mark Messenger.
Rating: 95/100 – Superb.
Heemskerk Coal River Riesling 2008
Tasmania doesn’t make just very decent sparkling wine, they also make very good Riesling. The cool climate origins of this Coal River Southern Tasmanian Riesling just adds to the purity of the wine, as well as classiness and elegance that really sets it off as something special. No sharpness here – just soft pure creamy fruit (handpicked at that), treated to short term oak, then emerging long and luxuriant – limes really lifting through along with lemons and green apples. The acidity is just so well integrated as is aid and doesn’t stick out. Indeed the balance is just right here. The winemaker is Anna Pooley, and I say take a bow Anna.
Food Match: Seafood
Drink: Now to 2014.
Price: About $40.
Alc: 12.5%
Rating: 93-94/100 - Excellent.
Chandon Vintage Brut 2006
Chandon is a brand synonymous with class, elegance and celebration. The classy bottle, its elegant label puts you notice to good times ahead. Domaine Chandon, the maker of Chandon rarely disappoints and accordingly is the epitome of quality, consistency and value when it comes the Australian premium sparkling wine stakes. Big words, but ones Chandon have earnt and continue to deserve.This Methode Traditionnelle sparkling vintage wine over delivers at all levels – quality and price, particularly. As the cork pops and the bubbles stream into your Champagne flute, the remarkable purity of this sparkling wine impresses. Dry, citrus dominated, lemons, limes and crisp green apples, the nose is crisp and lively and dramatically fresh and invigorating, however this all settles on the palate with a light creaminess that delivers delicious tight smooth flavours that just enliven the palate. Blended very judiciously, the seamlessness of the finish is excellent. Try some this Melbourne Cup day.
Food match: Pork belly.
Drink to 2016 plus.
About $40.
Closure: Cork.
Rating: 94/100 – Excellent.
Schild Estate Alma Schild Chardonnay 2008
Schild Estate is a Barossa boutique winery that impresses me consistently with its value for money wines that are so highly drinkable. This one is no exception. Dedicated to Alma Schild, the Schild matriarch, this is a very worthy Chardonnay that emanates from estate grown fruit on the Three Springs Farm vineyard. The aromas are just classic peach melon Chardonnay - light and invigorating. A light creaminess then envelopes the senses, tantalising and seducing you every so slowly, delightfully so to try the wine. All things are restrained at this time, with a certain understatedness. The oak is there but not making itself out to be anything strong and heavy. The acidity is soft and supporting of the fruit. Indeed it is the balance, the poise and the overall elegance of this Chardonnay is what impresses both at the front end when enjoying the aromas and at the final end when enjoying the long smooth creamy luxuriant flavours on the palate.
Food Match: Oven baked chicken breast, wrapped in prosciutto.
Drink: 2009 to 2013.
Alcohol: 14.0%.
Price: About $20
Tags: Something To Impress; Value.
Rating: 94/100 - Excellent
Lenton Brae Wilyabrup Chardonnay 2007
There is little doubt that the Margaret River produces more than its share of excellent Australian Chardonnay. The list is long and impressive and this one from Lenton Brae has to be part of it. Youthful vibrant leesy and tangy in its profile, this is a stylish lightly creamy citrussy lemon example of synchronicity – yes all the parts are in check with one another. The palate is classy long linear and has an excellent supporting structure to the tightly knitted slowly evolving fruit. The oak is pronounced and ready for the long haul that this quality Chardonnay has stamped all over it.
Try it with smoked chicken breast stuffed with pancetta.
Drink to 2014.
Alc 13.5%.
About $45.
92-93/100 – Excellent.
Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay 2008
Sensational. There I said it. Seriously I am sitting here in my Friday night wind down mode, thinking quite simply I could survive just on Shaw and Smith wines – be it the Savvy Blanc, the Shiraz or indeed this very fine Chardonnay. I could alternate each evening for variety, and I certainly would be rarely disappointed. This is one stunning Chardonnay – the purity of the fruit is just sensational, the complexity just flows seamlessly through the wine, the creaminess, and light yet rich enough to be enticing just tantalises the palate. The balance and roundness is just right. Yes classic peach melon, a youthful lively soft acidity, a delightful mouthful that speaks volumes of the leesiness, and of the malo treatment. The palate is divine, this is eminently drinkable and a fine wine drinking experience.
Try it with lobster mornay.
Drink to 2014.
Alc 13.5%.
About $38.
96/100 – Exceptional.
Howard Park Western Australia Chardonnay 2007
Gravitas, substance and seriousness emerge as the key words to describe this impressive Chardonnay. It is settling in very well for a long and prosperous future and is varietal and regional in its characters so we get reflects what you should get with consistency of quality. This is indeed classic Howard Park Chardonnay making and drinking. The leesiness as well as oak merge well with the peach melon, citrus characters – there is a gorgeous spiciness that underpins the fruit as well and a tangy acidity that delights and invigorates the palate. Fine and elegant on the finish with a crispness and good solid flavours. Substance as I said before. Try this with lobster risotto.
Drink to 2015.
About $38.
Alc 13.5%.
92-93/100 – Excellent.
Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2007
This is flagship red wine in the Thomas Wines stable. Andrew Thomas (Thommo) is the winemaker who has crafted this Shiraz from his Pokolbin vineyard and his boutique winery in the Hunter Valley. The sweet ripe fruit really hits you at the beginning along with the spicy oak, which is quite firm. It is a big red wine and indeed one that might make you wonder where is this wine going. This is bigger in style and aroma profile than even I expected, and it caught me a tad unaware. Anyway it is fulsome robust and distinctive Shiraz in composition. The blackberries, blackcurrants, spicy plums and raspberries all make an appearance along with youthful raw edgy oak. The aromas are fresh and vibrant and really youthful. It needs time to settle in the glass and when allowed to, transforms itself very well along, with the help of some good aeration, into a more drinkable style. This is when the glorious liquorice, light game, coffee mocha, a tad of sweat and subtle aniseed characters all start wafting out. Indeed the complex palate is smooth soft and elegant and makes for delicious drinking right now in one sense. But to be frank, this has long haul written all over it given its powerful stature. I would be putting a case down and slowly extracting a bottle every six to nine months, for sampling purposes. I think it will hit its straps well and truly as a Hunter red in about 2011 plus. Try it with daube of wagyu beef.
Drink to 2022.
About $60.
Alc 14.3%.
93-94/100 – Excellent.
Tyrrell’s Wines Stevens Hunter Semillon 2005
This is a really fresh zesty zippy dry upfront Semillon, in spite of its four years plus age. It lifts on the aroma front with crisp limes, lemons, apples and this is backed up with a quite discernable spritzig invigorating minerality. It tantalises the palate with a lightness and delivers lively fresh acidity yet with a light creaminess that makes it delicious and yet also serious drinking. It is only just starting to wind up to its full potential and its aged characters through maturity are only just starting to surface. Try this with shell pasta with a creamy peas and bacon sauce.
Drink to 2015 plus.
Alc 11.0%.
About $32 but found for less.
93/100 – Excellent.
Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2007
This is special. It ticks all the boxes, It takes you to all the right places. It satisfies the high expectation created by its price tag and most importantly it delivers an exceptional and memorable drinking experience. Iain Riggs take a bow. This Hunter Shiraz is the real deal – seamless, pure, balanced, refined, elegant and classy with all its parts delivering individually and also in synergy. Yes I thoroughly enjoyed this. I enjoyed enjoying this as you can get a tad apprehensive opening a $140 bottle of wine and wondering if it going to be the real deal and justify its price tag. It is and it does is my response.Deep, spicy and powerful on the nose. The aromas are restrained and tight at the same time. The fruit is polished, delicious, pure, smooth and well rounded. A serious wine that makes you think about it as you go along. Medium bodied with an overall seamlessness to it, the oak is youthful yet well integrated. You also get classic blackberry, spicy plums, liquorice, subtle earthiness, aniseed and cedary towards the end. The tannins are soft smooth and fine to the end. A promising future ahead of it yet drinking impeccably right now. Try this with buccatini with salsa di pomodori and rucola di andrea.
Drink to 2018 plus.
About $140.
Alc 13.5%.
97/100 – Exceptional.
Shaw and Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2007
This wine has the wow factor. Not a loud wow but rather a long unwinding more softer eventual wow at the end of the drinking experience. Seamless, integrated, soft, mellow, well rounded and balanced are the buzz words here. Linear from the first pour to the last lingering taste in making for a balanced and seamless drinking experience, a memorable one at that. Aromatic, yes, but in a restrained and more subtle way. Polished, delicious, luscious pure fruit, but not in an overly ripe or over the top manner. Alcohol, there at 14.0%, in check, and certainly not poking its head out unnecessarily. Tannins, soft and well rounded yet auguring and set for a longer future. The oak, in perfect harmony with the fruit, making again for that (here’s that word again) seamless drinking. Yes this is still a vibrant young fresh red with plenty of black fruits, liquorice, violets and so on, but it imparts this youthfulness with quite a bit of maturity for such a youngster and in doing so promises lots and lots for its future (and drinks damn well right now). Try it with wagyu beef pie.
Drink to 2015.
About $38.
Alc 14.0%.
95-96/100 – Superb.
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2007
This is a thinking person’s Chardonnay as it makes you consider it from many many angles before you even taste it. Expressive dynamic thoughtful winemaking by Vanya Cullen. Certainly not a peaches and cream type Chardonnay – no instead a tight lean compact intense Chardonnay with a flintiness, citriosity, minerality and yes eventually a good hint of nectarine on the palate, all of it delivered in layers of complexity, revealing itself ever so slowly, one veil at a time and each time telling you a bit more about its story as it develops in the glass and moves along. I like it a lot, a lot of Chardonnay drinkers however may need some extra time to consider it themselves and reach their own verdict. Classy, elegant and refined, I would even say a tad shy or even disconcerted at first, but boy once she is out on the dance floor, well she shines and she becomes the belle of the ball and then there is no stopping her. This is one for the long haul, the bottle says 10 years – I think so myself as it is in its veritable youth right now. Try it with paella with chicken, chorizo, squid, swordfish and crystal bay prawns.
Drink to 2017.
About $70.
Alc 13.5%.
93-94/100 – Excellent.
Tyrrell’s Wines Vat 8 Hunter Shiraz 2006
Described as a modern style of Hunter Shiraz on the bottle and I tend to agree. Classy and fulsome are my initial descriptors along with hints of game, truffles, black olives, earth, quite discernable dried mixed herbs, raspberries, plums and blackberries, indeed all in all, making for a complex, layered and sophisticated nose. Smooth, long, refined and well balanced on the palate with no edges just those long smooth inviting lingering flavours. A beautifully poised red that make a statement in itself. Not over the top in oak, alcohol or even fruit profile at that. Indeed everything is in check and that is why it delivers on all fronts so well. A delicious wine to savour with a neat piece or two of stilton or aged cheddar.
Drink to 2016.
About $59.
Alc – 13.5%.
94/100 – Excellent.
Grant Burge Meshach 2004
Deep, dark, dense and opulent, even mysteriously so. Brooding yet also evocative, spruiking its far ranging characters in all directions. A superb red wine, one with loads of panache and class and style. Not just smooth long ripe deep fruit, no, it is imparted with elegance and a fine structure. Glossy oak, ripe blackberries, rich plums, deep red cherries, liquorice and chocolate, primary characters, all standing up, at attention and ready to take their place. The overall mouth feel is succulent, round, enveloping and delicious. This is a wine that you want to create something special to drink with. Luxuriant, far reaching and ever evolving in the glass, it delivers in all dimensions. Try this with home made slow cooked beef and field mushroom pie.
Drink to 2019.
About $135.
95/100 – Superb.
Fox Creek McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz 2006
Gold are my first words, actually my first word. I like this wine very muchly, a nice turn of phrase if I say so myself. It really takes me to places where I like to be. Ripe fruit, smooth oak, long tannins, alcohol there but in check, seamlessness and eminent drinkability – yes a buzz word, well two, of mine lately but one that hits the mark re this top shelf red. I never really know what to expect when I see “Reserve” on a label, but here I am truly in a higher place. Fruit, purity and with elegance, oak, coconutty so and glossy, integrated and longishly so. Ripe soft tannins, fine and lingering on and on. Plums, fruit cake, more plums, blackberries, light forest floor, black liquorice and lightish tobacco. A youthful red still at that and one that is going to improve over time. Really decent drinking with slow cooked lamb, carrots, potatoes and pearl barley. Top shelf wine.
Drink to 2020. About $70. Alc 14.5%. 95/100 – Superb.
Kay Brothers Hillside Shiraz 2006
Mellow, soft, smooth, harmonious and seamless are the opening buzz words to describe what is a very decent red wine. All its parts are in synergy with one another. The upfront robust fruit is there as is the almost indiscernible alcohol, as is the mocha oak and the tannins ripe and smooth as well – all together in the right parts and in sync. Blackberries, plums, red earth, light game, a light meaty character as well as chewy black liquorice follows. The palate enlivens and delights with its freshness and vibrancy. This Shiraz has the goods to last the distance and has to be one of the better Hillsides I’ve tasted over the years. Try it with beef and mushroom pie.
Drink to 2015.
About $45.
Alc 14.5%.
94/100 – Excellent.
Pipers Brook Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay 2005
This is the way I enjoy my Chardonnay – complex, polished and pure yet also distinctive and classically varietal. This is unmistakeably Tasmanian Chardonnay and one that has received the works treatment. Pale straw, demonstrating its pure Isle origins, the aromas just ensue imparting seriousness to the wine overall and inviting you in with a raft of characters to partake of it more. Think melon, mango, pineapple, citrus zest and a good swirl of butterscotch all melded together very decently. Classy in structure with lively acidity auguring for a firm elegant medium structure accompanied by spicy cashew oak. The leesiness just adds to the overall complexity of the wine and further character to its overall drinkability. Very well put together and creamy balanced and seamless on the finish. Drink it with pork belly.
Drink to 2012-14.
About $45.
Alc – 13.5%
95/100 – Superb.
Grant Burge Shadrach 2006
Grant Burge names his finest Cabernet Sauvignon, Shadrach. He sources its grapes mainly from his Corryton Park vineyard – both high and cool in the Barossa and then follows this up with winemaking that includes 21 months in French oak. So the overall expectations of it are quite high. My view is that it delivers these expectations well and truly. I was impressed with elegant structure of the wine but in the same breath, its substance i.e. good fruit, no holes on the palate and overall character i.e. drinkability. No leanness, tightness and unwieldiness here – no, it is pretty much full on from the moment you extract the cork, yes cork. The impressive intense spicy and distinctive aromas all carry through neatly making their opening remarks. The black and red fruits are polished, pure yet there, smooth and well rounded. The palate is soft and round yet seriously imparts layers of complexity as the wine evolves with time in the glass – that makes you think closely about it. Hints of toasty oak follow along with smooth ripe tannins. A good lineal structure at the end marries well with the overall fruit and provides that balanced drinkability I look for in wines, and particularly Cabernet. Cherries, blackberries, mulberries, blackcurrants and plums all make their appearance in one shape or form. Dark chocolate and liquorice as well along with tealeaf and light prunes. Try it with braised lamb shanks.
