The blending of two Australian classics such as Shiraz and Cabernet in this, show off how well we can get the basics so right. Indeed I always say it you can do the basics really really well people will come. Ben Glaetzer has done really really well here. This Shiraz dominant blend capitalizes on the blue and black fruits in it with the purity of spicy blackberries as well as blackcurrants really coming through beautifully to entice you in. The Cabernet element works a treat in providing a backbone to the solid fruits, cutting in nicely to form an attractive shapely figure that reflects all the way to the end of the palate. The tannin structure is fine and grainy and augurs for long haul yet. The oak is there making its presence felt, not over the top but there to marry the fruit into a long future, a prosperous one I think at that. Ttry this with aged Angus beef char grilled.
15.1%. Drink to 2020 plus. About $45. Barossa Valley. 94/100 – Excellent.
Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay 2010
Moderation is the key at this time of the year, or so they tell me. Anyway the moderation in this excellent, may I say yet another excellent Chardonnay, from the Shaw and Smith stable at that, is the sum of all its parts, the synergy I say. Wow what a super sentence and a half but justifiable in the context to what is being delivered up here my friends. Neat tight biscuits, white peach, honeydew melon, hint of light spice and with measured synched oak and lively yet tempered acidity. All in all, soft smooth and mellow and delicious to boot. Try this with roast chicken, well seasoned.
About $40. 13%. Drink to 2017. Adelaide Hills. 94/100 – Excellent.
Jim Barry Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
The vibrancy of this Coonawarra red really shines through from the first pour. It resonates and glows with pure purple grape ink. Velvety lush yet also lineal fruit, polished plums, spicy blackcurrants, a cool structure with an overall glorious long mouthfeel that appears to go on and on and never end. Sweet oak, not over the top, ripe tannins with a smoothness to the end. Very moreish and delicious. This really delivers so well and has a few good years yet. Try it with sticky pork ribs.
About $55. 14.5%. Drink to 2015. 94/100 – Excellent.
Tarrawarra Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2004
It is a privilege to be able to drink Chardonnay from a Reserve label and from the Yarra Valley and at nearly 8 years of age and from such a maker as Tarrawarra – all from one bottle. Indeed the provenance of this white is impeccable. The nose dazzles with youthful exuberance, like a genie finally being let of the bottle it doesn’t know which way to turn first to make its wishes come true. Citrine and tropical fruits exude, I love that word exude if you haven’t noticed. A bit distractive at first as I said but then everything just kicks in and falls into place, in the glass with the oak, acidity and mouthfeel all making their presence felt as individual components but then seductively and lingeringly so all together neatly on the palate. Very decent drinking, very decent winemaking and an end product to be proud of. Try this with roast seasoned chicken – simply cooked with root vegetables.
14%. About $60. Drink to 2014. 95/100 – Superb.
Mount Langhi Ghiran Cliff Edge Shiraz 2008
Real deal red – substance gravitas personality and robustness yet with finesse elegance and poise – how do they do it all in one. Seamless ripe succulent plums, blackberries that ooze but don’t overdominate. Liquorice black liqourice that just adds to the overall body with milk chocolate as well. A glorious red when you put it all together gliding effortlessly down the throat coating beautifully all the way to the end. Moreishly so. Try this with roast beef.
14.5%. About $35. Drink to 2018 plus. 94/100 – Excellent.
Jim Barry The McRae Wood Shiraz 2006
This is heavy duty red. Really heavy duty serious stuff. No pretending here, this is big robust substantial red wine. Full of power and unrestrained evolving fruit character, this full bodied Shiraz really delivers on all fronts. Big oak, there in sync with the deep red and black fruits. Strong powerful tannins and a backbone that cuts through nicely negating any warmth and instead imparting a formal and classy edge to the wine. Long all encompassing in mouthfeel. A veritable vinous infant on one hand, this will evolve and develop into something even more special with time. Ok to drink now if you are fan of the big red, but savour a few bottles for an annual review that will continue for a long time. Try this with grilled Angus beef.
About $50. Drink to 2026. 15.5%. 94/100- Excellent.
Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007
This is one of the better red wines I have tasted this year. Big call yes but this is that time of the year when you do recall all the good wines one has tasted and this is up there on all fronts. The way that the Cabernet and Merlot come together both in terms of their fruit profiles and in terms of their structures really does it for me. There is a sense of ying and yang, These Margaret River varietals - they are seamless and uncompromising together in marrying all their components in a way that delivers soft smooth well integrated fruit – measured oak and with finely grained tannins. Moreish with the plums and blackcurrants just so seductive, the finish just augurs for more and more. It will go a few more years yet but seriously this is drinking superbly now. Try this with suckling pig.
About $60. 14.2%. Drink to 2017 plus. 96/100 – Superb.
Giesen Traditionally Fermented The August 1888 Sauvignon Blanc 2010
This is real deal NZ Sauvignon Blanc. A level up from anything I have tried lately. No I haven’t migrated trans Tasman. Taking it to another level with the traditional fermenting and the ensuing complexity that comes through this beautiful big example of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Substance, creaminess, velvety smooth the palate really delivers big-time with lashings of citrus and tropical fruit. Edgy interesting zesty acidity and really nice underlying rich spiciness comes through, great cut and structure right to the last drop. Respectable elegant drinking on one hand, substance and character and charm on the other. Not a wine for the faint hearted, Chardonnay traditionalists will be on board as soon as they try it. Special occasion stuff. Try it with a seafood platter, hot and cold.
About $40. 14%. Drink Now. 95-96/100 – Superb.
Cullen Diana Madeline 2009
Widely regarded as one of the country’s best red wines, and made by one of the country’s finest winemakers, Vanya Cullen, here is an impressive wine of stature and provenance that delivers from day one on a wine journey that will possibly span decades. I like the inherent elegance and restraint of the fruit on one hand, the tempered but there oak and the spice filled and cold meat aromas along with secondary cedary notes then a litany of other intertwined smells that entice you to savour it. Well rounded, an edgy palate with freshness and vibrancy as well as substance and gravitas that augurs for that long haul. Value when compared to its competitors. Try it with slow baked Greek lamb.
Drink to 2025 plus. About $110. 12.5%. 95/100 – Superb.
Lenton Brae Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
This is still in its infancy. However this doesn’t distract from the fact that it is drinking superbly right now. Yes it is a young gun of a red, bolting around the glass like an adolescent, but that youthful exuberance is a fine thing, one that energises and vitalises you. Glorious spicy plums, deep red cherries, blackcurrants and blueberries enrich you and envelope all the senses. Liqourice and aniseed and fine grainy oak all support the fruit. A coolness and elegance, James Dean style cuts across the palate, fine tannins left behind in the mouthfeel, nonetheless with age this will just turn into another type of lovable character, and yes with a certain maturity but yet reminiscently so. Try this with grilled kangaroo fillets.
Drink to 2018. 14.5%. About $55. 95/100 - Superb.
Kreglinger Brut De Blancs 2003
Top shelf stuff. Special occasion stuff. Share this with yourself type Sparkling wine from the pristine Tasmanian region. Ticking all my boxes as I sip. The development of a fine lightly creamy palate with the age has really made this a special wine. Citrus, light honey and cashews all evolve layer upon layer to unravel a fine elegant refined set of aromas that flows onto the palate. Try this with someone special.
Drink to 2013. About $65. 12.5%. 95/100 – Superb.
Toolangi Reserve Chardonnay 2007
This wine should come with a big warning label. Don’t just buy one bottle it should say. You instead have been warned. The disappointment factor at the end of the first bottle is big. A tap to an upside down empty bottle doesn’t elicit much hope either. Perhaps I shouldn’t have shared it I say, treated loved ones, perhaps I should have consumed it all on my own, in a dark deserted corner, all in the name of wine writing. Anyway the end has come and it is time to put pen to paper. A luxuriant luxurious seductive stunning Chardonnay delivered itself on my palate. Rich and lightly creamy, the soft smooth pure fruit, classic peach melon subsumes the senses. The oak has just melded seamlessly and balanced with the fruit and it is drinking so well synced and so soft and so harmoniously. This is a dazzling wine, one that will reward in the future, but wow it is drinking ever so good now. The techo’s amongst you will want to know it is unfiltered and made by Rick Kinzbrunner of Giaconda fame. Traditional methods, handpicked grapes, low cropped Yarra Valley fruit etc – my advice is sink your nose into the glass and get carried away, like I have. Try it with lobster mornay, a match made in heaven.
About $70. 14.2%. Drink to 2016. 97-98/100 – Exceptional.
Cassegrain Limited Release Gerwurztraminer 2005
This is benchmark stuff. Yes I know it is Gerwurztraminer and it has some miles on the speedo but seriously this is excellent white wine. The winemaker and wine grower should take a bow each on the making and cellaring fronts. It is just right on all these fronts – spice, musk and lychee, aromatic but in a reasoned tempered way, no cloyingness, just seamlessly imparted flavours balanced and in sync. Delicious moreish and as I said the real deal. Cellared beautifully and released recently. Try this with yum cha.
14.5%. About $35. Drink to 2015. 95/100 – Superb.
Cullen Diana Madeline 2009
Widely regarded as one of the country’s best red wines, and made by one of the country’s finest winemakers, Vanya Cullen, here is an impressive wine of stature and provenance that delivers from day one on a wine journey that will possibly span decades. I like the inherent elegance and restraint of the fruit on one hand, the tempered but there oak and the spice filled and cold meat aromas along with secondary cedary notes then a litany of other intertwined smells that entice you to savour it. Well rounded, an edgy palate with freshness and vibrancy as well as substance and gravitas that augurs for that long haul. Value when compared to its competitors. Try it with slow baked Greek lamb.
Drink to 2025 plus. About $110. 12.5%. 95/100 – Superb.
Parker Estate Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
The sensibility of drinking reds with bottle age makes a lot of sense. Now there’s a nice piece of tautology for you.I like the richness of the purity of the blackcurrants, plums and blackberries here, fresh ripe and succulent and yet not overdone. An underlying coolness throughout the palate reminds of its Coonawarra origins. The oak is spicy yet mellow and soft and smooth, accompanying its way down the palate with the classic fruit. Drinking very decently now. A few years left in it but an impressive red to have with Italian pork sausages, grilled and with oregano.
About $40. 14.5%. Drink to 2015. 92-93/100- Excellent.
Again I like the smooth mellowness that is the result of some very decent blending here. Having said that, the Hollick family have had plenty of practice over the years putting decent reds together. Fine tannins, measured oak and good fresh acidity all contribute to the main star of the show, the dark red berry and black berry fruits. Very easy drinking. Try this with slow cooked osso bocco Milanese.
Drink to 2014. Alc 14.5%. About $25. 92/100 – Excellent.
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2009
This is the real deal when it comes to Chardonnay. Everything stops when the Cullen samples arrive. Ooh the Cullen samples are here they all say. Hovering and stooping and lurking abounds until they are all laid out. Kevin John is one of my longstanding favourites so understandably and probably a bit unfairly it heads to the top of the tasting bench list awaiting my attention. Of course it doesn’t have to wait long. A fuller more richer style than I am used to, but hey all the classic peach melon fulsomeness is there, good French oak, there and making its presence felt. Smooth and lightly creamy, it rewards the palate by subsuming it all at first, making its presence ever felt but then not in an overwhelming way but rather with a sense of gravitas and style. Try this with lobster mornay.
Drink to 2015. 13.5%. About $100. 94/100 – Excellent.
Tarrawarra Reserve Chardonnay 2008
Pristine allegro youthful with lashings of peach melon classic characters along with an underlying supporting line of new oak. An elegant classy chardonnay that really impresses from the first pour and then really delivers in all dimensions right to the end of the palate. With a strong backbone, the fullsome tropical fruits develop beautfully in the mouth and come through long and creamily through to the end. Delicious and of substance, there is more and more to come with time here. Try it with oven baked penne with peas, eggplant and chorizo in a deep tomato slow cooked sauce.
Drink to 2018. About $60. 95/100 – superb.
Yering Station Chardonnay 2007
This is seductive wine. Yarra Valley Chardonnay no less from a smooth operator, that Yering Station. Pure fresh indulgent Chardonnay fruit, classic peach melon, perfectly in sync oak, seamless and lightly creamy, tropical fruit notes emerge on the secondary palate and this Chardonnay just goes on and on and on on the finish. Bear with me there were a few on’s there but seriously the goodness lasts forever on this one. Try it with double cooked pork belly with snake beans and asian greens.
About $26. 12.5% Drink to 2014. 94/100 – Excellent.
Majella Riesling 2010
If someone from outer space came up to me and asked for a taste of Riesling I think I’d give them a glass of this Majella Riesling. It has all the lemons and limes and citriosity that you’d expect from one, the balance imparted by soft creamy acidity with a just right supporting edge and a deliciously long lingering classic finish with an elegance and a light bite that tingles right to the end. Until then I shall polish off the remainder of the bottle on my own. Try with chicken tikka masala.
Drink to 2018. About $22. 12%. 94/100 – Excellent.
Cape Mentelle Trinders Cabernet Merlot 2008
The blending is spot on here. It delivers a smooth lineal delicious red wine that is distinguishable in its Cabernet characters with its blackcurrant and cigar box features, its Merlot with its fleshy spicy plums. Together you get the synergy of this all, delivered with a sound structure and fine lingering tannins that augur well. Highly drinkable, easily so. Cape Mentelle describe this wine as luxurious. I can only agree with them. Try it with pan fried fillet steak with green peppercorn sauce.
14%. About $32. Drink to 2016. 93/100 – Excellent.
Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2009
The richness opulence and creaminess really impresses here at all levels. I like the way the deep peach melon fruit, creamy oak, secondary characters of cashew and citrus all meld together to deliver an impressive drop. Not for the faint hearted this is not a pretender in the shyness category. No it is fulsome real substantive and carries its weight with gravitas. It is utterly delicious, balanced in every dimension and moreish and is in its early days yet. It will carry almost any type of cuisine. I enjoyed it with an apricot chicken slow cooked curry.
Drink to 2017. 13%. About $42. 95-96/100 - Superb.
Mud House Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010
This has mass appeal – real mass appeal, not the trendy fickle fly by night mass appeal. No this is serious appeal. NZ respectable savvy blanc true to its roots, fruit driven, not over the top fruit, soft fresh acidity not woozy but not overly present. I taste an array of tropical and citrus fruits that just meld into one another seamlessly and effortlessly which in turn glide their way down the throat with ease, calling out for more. A moreish white, again there’s that mass appeal coming through. My house white my mud house white as well I say, I declare and what a declaration it is. Enjoy. Try it with pizza napolitana.
Drink Now. About $22. Alc 13.5%. 93/100 – Excellent.
This is opulent drinking. Not just because it is from the best estate grown fruit made in the finest oak barrels and by Kym Tolley and his experienced winemaking team. No it is opulent because I say so. I love the smoothness and richness and decadence of the fruit. Yes the fruit does all the talking here at the moment. It is exquisite fruit at that, no oak sticking its head out, no discernibly disproportionate acidity, no OTT alcoholic warmth, notwithstanding the 15% alcohol. Rich smooth and on and on and on is the way it glides down the palate with ultra fine furry tannins auguring and enticing me to put a bottle or three away to see how much better it can all become. Very decent drinking. Try this with grilled Angus beef.
Drink to 2023. Alc 15%. About $50. 96/100 – Superb.
Higher Plane Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
This Cabernet does it for me on so many levels. Margaret River magic I call it. You get tell I’m excited cant you. The velvety succulence of the smooth lineal fruit, berry ridden, rewards so well in terms of balance, drinkability and overall balance. A Cabernet of substance yet overwhelming gravitas and class as well. Low yields, handpicked and minimal intervention all are the buzz words on the label and justifiably resonate quality, quality and more quality from where I am sitting here. A red that demands home cooking – say hand stuffed spinach and feta cheese ravioli.
Drink to 2017. Alc14.0%. About $38 – but worth it. 94/100 – Excellent.
Howard Park Museum Release Great Southern Riesling 2006
Very elegant yet it also fulfils the gravitas and substance criteria with a soft slowly evolving smoothness on the palate and finish. Tropical, musk, ripe, a touch of sweetness, yet lively acidity along with a long delicious finish that carries flavours on and on. Still youthful in one dimension, eminently ready to drink in another – more time will result in more goodness, but this white has the take me now factor written all over it. Delicious moreish drinking, quality plus. Try it with san choy bow, pork mince.
Drink to 2016. About $35. Bottled June 2006. 12.0%. 94/100 – Excellent.
Domaine Chandon Barrel Selection Shiraz 2006
Don’t mind time on my wines. Harder and harder to find, harder and harder to do. The youthfulness and inherently lightly raw spiciness that the nose has in it could fool you into believing that this red is q few years younger than it is. The potential for aging is clearly there and the screw cap is doing its job well. The depth of blackberry, spicy plums, liquorice, and aniseed all come through strongly and assertively, the alcohol is there noticeable but the oak is not poking out drastically but rather is more smooth and silky. It drinks very finely – I checked there was no Viognier in it (it hasn’t) as it really drinks so smooth and lineally. Having said that it is still in its infancy and has many more fruitful years ahead of it. Very nice with beef burgundy.
Drink to 2016. Alc 14.0%. About $50. 94/100 – Excellent.
Lindeman’s Coonawarra Pyrus 2008
This is a cracker of a red. I know this lacks wine speak sophistication on my part but seriously it just goes off big-time for me in a vinous sense. The blending, take a bow winemaker Brett Sharpe and team is just so spot on. Cabernet varietal and regional dominance makes its presence felt and so does the addition of Malbec and a hint of Merlot. Together they are one, in harmony and sync with one another, a band of superb musicians each knowing their place and together delivering the same tune. The berry fruit really lifts out of the glass, refreshingly so and with hints of savoury black olive, coffee mocha, liquorice and dried herbs – lifted mint as well. The velvety smoothness in mouth feel makes it very pleasurable drinking and this is in the polish off the bottle category for dinner with a loved one sort of wine. Try it with bbq lamb fillet marinated in rosemary.
14%. About $55. Drink to 2023. 96/100 – Superb.
Moppitty Vineyards Reserve Shiraz 2008
There are reserve and there are reserve wines, this is a wine worthy of the reserve categorisation. Intense deep and concentrated this really shows off its fruit and savoury aspects well with dark chocolate, liquorice, game and aniseed all making their appearances. A tad of Viognier makes good complementing well with the Shiraz. Deep long and with fine tannins. Smooth red cherries and blackberries delight to the end. The oak is good well matched and will assist in a long future being delivered here. Try with angus beef, grilled with field mushrooms.
Drink to 2018. Alc 14.5%. About $60. 95/100 – Superb.
Giesen Sauvignon Blanc The August 1988 2010.
Named after August Giesen, this traditionally fermented Sauvignon Blanc presses my button. A stunning white wine that uniquely captures the essence of NZ Sauvignon Blanc by adding layers of complexity and richness to it. Velvety peach, melon, tropical fruits and butterscotch make up the dominant characters resulting in a smooth long finish that rewards in a fulsome way. It resonates right to the end. Try this with chicken tandoori.
Drink Now. About $40. 95/100 – superb.
Tim Adams Pinot Gris 2010
Top shelf Pinot Gris. I knew from the first pour when the delightfully translucent copper straw colour bedazzled my Riedel glass with its reflections bouncing effortlessly from side to side then finally settling enough for me to have my first sniff and swirl. Pure pears follow along with green apples and lemons, this is an orchardist’s idea of heaven. Good liveliness on the palate – balance between ying and yang – you know what I mean. Anyway it drinks beautifully with my lamb korma with plums and chickpeas and my homemade roti.
Drink Now. About $22. Alc 13.0%. 93/100 – Excellent.
Seamlessness. The one word that impresses upon you from start to finish about this classic red blend. I love the way the synergy of all its parts comes together in a classic understated way that allowing the fruit to star whilst all the other aspects of it are playing their supporting role. The blending is spot on and the lingering finish makes the call out for more. Try it with 6 hour slow cooked lamb shoulder.
Drink to 2017. Alc 14.0%. About $30. 94/100 – Excellent.
Fox Creek McLaren Vale Chardonnay 2008
Like this wine muchly, very muchly, so muchly so that my grammar has been affected. McLaren Vale Chardonnay – assertive yes in fruit aroma profile, but there is also an underlying finesse and polishedness to it that makes it a classy drop to savour. Green olives, an inherent minerality and then evolving ripe white peaches then melon follow along with underpinned lemons and limes. The oak is there hand in hand with the fruit, providing a deliciousness that just delights at every twist and turn. Try this with penne with carbonara sauce. Oh and at $17 it is up there in the value stakes.
Drink Now to 2014. Alc 12.0%. About $17. 92/100 – Excellent.
Willow Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009
This is very respectable Pinot Noir from this boutique Mornington Peninsula boutique producer. Geraldine McFaul is the winemaker and Robbie O’Leary is the winemaker so we are in good hands here, very good hands indeed. Handpicked estate grown and full French oak treatment all reflects the quality dimension that goes into this Pinot. I like the fruit characters, elegant and yet smoothly imparted and yet with an undercurrent of savoury dimension to it as well – light game, light earth, beetroot and sour cherries all working together to produce a fine example especially as time envelopes the glass. Very nice wine drinking here. Try it with Neil Perry’s crumbed chicken breast with Moroccan eggplant, as per yesterday’s recipe in the SMH’s good weekender. I of course couldn’t resist adding a layer of potato as well. A glorious food wine match if I say so. Thank you Mr Perry – thank you the folks at Willow Creek.
Drink to 2016. About $40. 13.0% ish I think – the label is covering it. 94/100 – Excellent.
Lerida Estate Josephine Pinot Noir 2008
This wine has the capacity to convert. Convert non-Pinotphiles onto the team. Its finesse, elegance, composure and fine stature makes the purity and dynamics of the fruit stand out really well. Light cherries, strawberries, truffle, light earth – but the lightness in balance does not distract from the overall gravitas and substance that the Pinot has in overall structure and palate delivery. The mouthfeel packs a spicy yet still cool tight punch whilst also retaining a silky classy elegance right to the end. Burgundian in influence. The evolving nature of the aromas with time in the glass augur for more good things to come. This is an outstanding Pinot Noir from the Lake George region in NSW, near the ACT. Try this with pork terrine.
Drink to 2018. About $78. Alc 14.1%. 95-96/100 – Superb.
Kilikanoon Morts Reserve Clare Valley Watervale Riesling 2010
Stop the presses, we have a winner. This is stunning Riesling – an each way bet on the drink now stakes with the reserve thrust to catapult it into the future. Aromatic in one dimension with a stunning array of peach, apple, lemons and passionfruit, sitting alongside a classy tangy acidity slowly unyielding itself. Well structured and blended beautifully, this has star written all over it. Try it with grilled chicken and mango salad.
Drink to 2020. Alc 12.5%. About $35. 95/100 – Superb.
Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2005
This has the wow factor all about it and Semillon, Hunter Valley style really makes its impression with this very decent example. The spicy apples, pears, lemons and limes all envelope the senses, the honey and toast of the development starts its emergent path beautifully here, a fresh grassiness complimented along with the clear fresh fulsome fruit, nicely showing off some nutty characters as well. Delicious and just moreish to drink, this has ages on it yet and its showiness will star well into the future. Try this with chicken grilled along with mango and avocado salad.
Drink to 2018 plus. Alc 11.0%. About $35. 94/100 – Excellent.
Lerida Estate Josephine Pinot Noir 2008
This wine has the capacity to convert. Convert non-Pinotphiles onto the team. Its finesse, elegance, composure and fine stature makes the purity and dynamics of the fruit stand out really well. Light cherries, strawberries, truffle, light earth – but the lightness in balance does not distract from the overall gravitas and substance that the Pinot has in overall structure and palate delivery. The mouthfeel packs a spicy yet still cool tight punch whilst also retaining a silky classy elegance right to the end. Burgundian in influence. The evolving nature of the aromas with time in the glass augur for more good things to come. This is an outstanding Pinot Noir from the Lake George region in NSW, near the ACT. Try this with pork terrine.
Drink to 2018. About $78. Alc 14.1%. 95-96/100 – Superb.
Cullen Margaret River Red 2008
Mi piace tanto questo bello vino rosso. I can’t help myself, this European style of red blend made from Cabernet, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc has me thinking of the old country and all that is good about it, so the Italian just rolls off the tongue when describing this. Time, history, respect for place, the good life, the past and integrated and linked to the present and into future. About good food as much as good wine, drinking now to be appreciated for what it is and not necessarily where it is going at any time soon. I liked this good red wine very much. Indeed the red fruits dazzle as does the vibrant palate that ensues. Try it with chicken cacciatore.
Drink Now. About $24. Alc 12.0%. 91/100 – Excellent.
Cullen Madeline Diana Madeline 2008
This is one of the best reds in the country. I say that because it is way up there on the quality consistency and cellaring stakes, year in year out as well as being underpinned by a relentless commitment by winemaker Vanya Cullen to keep taking it to another level through both the grape growing and the winemaking side of its wine label journey. Oh and you can normally because of its very decent blending drink it from day one whilst being assured of further improvement for many years to come. This continuous development in excellence is what makes it such a great red as well as keeping the anticipatory side of awaiting its next release up there as well. Certified biodynamic, a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, Cabernet dominance, the alcohol is at 12.5% and this results in an elegant enjoyable to drink wine at first yet it builds with great power over the next day or so. Classic red characters on the aroma, the smoky char oak is there as is a savoury dimension and it delivers with a strong finish and backbone. This will last ages. Try it with wagyu beef.
Drink to 2028. Alc 12.5%. About $105. 95/100 – Superb.
Chandon Vintage Brut 2007
I like the Chandon uncompromising philosophy of quality quality and more quality when it comes to its sparkling winemaking year in year in out that makes it in my opinion the best sparkling wine producer in the country. I don’t think that’s a big call when you consider the commitment of its winemakers to sourcing the best that goes into their base wines and the TLC they take in blending the final products. Visit Chandon in the Yarra Valley – talk to those who create the stuff and you too shall admire this philosophy. Blended from over 35 base wines they tell me an d on yeast for 30 months, the strength of character that this wine possesses and delivers is undeniable. Pop one or two to celebrate this year’s Melbourne cup.
About $35. Alc 12.5%. Drink to 2020. 94/100 – Excellent.
Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay 2009
This is top shelf Chardonnay drinking from the folks at Xanadu across the continent over there at Margaret River. It presses the buttons on all levels with classic varietal fruit, peaches, melon, tangy lemons, cashews and light grapefruit – indeed a litany of flavours and aromas. Neat tight and unwinding in front of you. The acidity and fruit meld together well – an elegance subsumes the senses and palate with a tangy lingering finish. The barrel fermentation and leesiness adds to the complexity and makes for interesting drinking. Try it with spaghetti with prawns.
Drink Now to 2015 plus. Alc 14.0%. About $80. 95/100 – Superb.
Cullen Madeline Diana Madeline 2008
This is arguably one of the best reds in the country. I say that because it is way up there on the quality consistency and cellaring stakes, year in year out as well as being underpinned by a relentless commitment by winemaker Vanya Cullen to keep taking it to another level through both the grape growing and the winemaking side of its wine label journey. Oh and you can normally because of its very decent blending drink it from day one whilst being assured of further improvement for many years to come. This continuous development in excellence is what makes it such a great red as well as keeping the anticipatory side of awaiting its next release up there as well. Certified biodynamic, a blend of Cabernet and Merlot, Cabernet dominance, the alcohol is at 12.5% and this results in an elegant enjoyable to drink wine at first yet it builds with great power over the next day or so. Classic red characters on the aroma, the smoky char oak is there as is a savoury dimension and it delivers with a strong finish and backbone. This will last ages. Try it with wagyu beef.
Drink to 2028. Alc 12.5%. About $105. 95/100 – Superb.
Higher Plane Chardonnay 2008
The word classic is overused in wine writing. I certainly have done my share and probably more than my share of describing a wine as a classic in my time. Classic this, classic that, makings of a classic, this is classic drinking and so on and on. But seriously this Margaret River Chardonnay is just that. Classic wine, classic drinking and a classic MR Chardonnay that will be so for quite few years to come. And yes I whilst I do have other words in my wine vocabulary to describe it I shall choose not to in this case. Hand picked, minimal intervention, low yields for the purists, for the hedonists I tell you it is pure indulgence and luxuriant drinking. Try it with a homemade butter chicken.
14.0%. Drink to 2013. About $33. 92-93/100 – Excellent.
Cullen Mangan 2008
Vanya Cullen really does blending ever so well and here this mix of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, is done just so effortlessly that it just subsumes the senses and palate, not in an intense or substantive way, but rather with subtly, refinement and elegance. I like the wine’s lightness, integrated parts, seamlessness and lineal delivery in mouthfeel. Purity of fruit is accentuated, winemaking skills in imparting the oak treatment just right and a restraint and underlying sense of power inherent in the fruit that will evolve in its own way to define its Margaret River origins and the Cullen brand of synergy over the next dozen years or so. The only problem I have with it is that I imagine it will be very difficult to keep this in the cellar for the fruits of time to take effect as opposed to the dining table. Buy lots of it I say to solve this problem and avoid disappointment. Really top shelf winemaking here folks.
Drink to 2018. Alc 13.0%, spot on. About $45. 95/100 – Superb.
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2008
This is more fullsome than I expected. I suppose I should learn to keep an open mind when assessing wines I know well, but there is less refineness and elegance here and more substance and gravitas in turn than I am used to with this stalwart white. It makes it no less as one of Australia’s leading Chardonnay’s at the end of the day, the difference is ultimately difference in it very self. More butterscotch, more cashew oak, more lusciousness, evolving and enveloping succulent classic lightly tangy varietal fruit, still pure, fresh and invigorating but with more oomph and vigour to it overall. Creamy lightly rich even essences of honey, the palate still dazzles and tantalises with deliciousness. I like it and reference it in my own wine catalogue wine mind as an older fashioned Chardonnay sort of way but yet at the same time modern influences emerging. It has a future to it that will develop upon the fruit maturity that is already evolving now. Try it with crayfish.
Drink to 2014. About $75. Alc 14.0%. 94/100 – Excellent.
O’Leary Walker Claire Reserve Shiraz 2006
I think this classic Australian wine typifies how good Shiraz can be, especially from the Clare Valley and even more so from the dynamic O’Leary Walker duo. In a relatively short time, this red has made its mark on the Australian wine landscape as one of its most respected reds and Shirazes. For me it is two things that make it especially so, the richness and ripeness of the fruit, from over 100 year old vines, and its overall elegance as well. You see the oak is youthful sweet and spicy, the tannins seamless ripe and integrated, the overall structure however makes for drinkability now with its overall smoothness in mouthfeel, velvety so and lingering long and on and on. Liquorice, chocolate and lush black forest cake on the palate just draws you in. This will develop very nicely with time. Try it with slow roasted Greek lamb.
Alc 14.5%. Drink to 2021. About $100. 95/100 – Superb.
Howard Park Great Southern Chardonnay 2009
Stunning. Superb. Exceptional. Just right. Spot on. Immaculate drinking. And so on and so on. You get the drift, this is special Chardonnay drinking. Crafted beautifully with the polished Chardonnay fruit making a classy classic entry, elegance and refinement the major hallmarks. Yet with evolving time in the glass, the aromas dazzle even more and bedazzle the senses. Peach melon, a swirl of butterscotch and fresh figs all make their presence felt. The acidity and overall structure however along with subtle lineal spicy oak add overall to its gravitas and poise, ensuring one does not dominate another. Long smooth supple and luxuriant in mouthfeel, the length is so distinct in its counterbalance of flavour and structure and finish. Beautiful drinking and value plus. Try this with lobster mornay. nb This will be released in October 2010.
$38. Drink to 2015. 13.5%. 96-97/100 – Superb/ Exceptional.
Kreglinger Brut De Blancs 2003
Made from predominantly Chardonnay grapes and with a small part of it having undertaken malo, this sparkling wine is just delicious drinking with its tight elegant bubbles and the fruit delivering glorious richness and succulence in its palate delivery and overall mouthfeel. Peach melon and tropical fruits luxuriate all over and deliver a refined but yet substantial sparkling of gravitas and all with a freshness and liveliness that is countenanced with a developed tasty and honeyed element as well. One for now as much as one for later. Try it with smoked salmon bruschetta.
12.5%. About $65. Drink Now to 2013. 94/100 – Excellent.
Dominique Portet Gippsland Pinot Noir 2009
This is stunning Pinot Noir, one of the best I have tried in ages. I couldn’t tell you the last one I had that smelt and tasted this good. Everything in it just comes together so well. Balance, style and finesse all in one. Fresh strawberries, light rhubarb, invigorating cherries, spicy cinnamon, rose petals and truffle. A clear fruit focus however yet with a spicy edginess, measured subtle oak, light right tannins, a seamless delivery but all in line and sync with continuing flowing stunning Pinot aromas. Ben and Dominique Portet take a bow, this is a classic Pinot Noir in every sense.
About $40. 13.0%. Drink to 2016. 95/100 – Superb.
Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2006
Restrained, subdued, tight and unyielding at first, this classic Penfolds red was slow off the starting block, making little fuss about its own appearance onto the centre stage. Spicy, persistent and concentrated fruit unwinds, building upon itself, solid, thick and muscular in its potential and yet quite elegant and refined in its current style. Promises much but is delivering measuredly and carefully so. Black olives, crushed pepper, raspberry and cherry along with prune and liquorice as well light earth and underlying oak that integrates well overall delivering balanced drinking. Fine tannins augment its overall character. One to keep an eye out over the next few years. Try it with beef cheeks.
14.5%. Drink to 2018-20. About $90. 92-93/100 – Excellent.
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
All around me spoke highly of this red. Comments of spot on, very drinkable, balanced and ripe and fullsome filled the room. The drink now factor is truly here for this esteemed Australian red. It delivers smooth long ripe concentrated sweetish well rounded fullsome fruit driven flavours now and captures the senses beautifully. The tannins are smooth and ripe, the oak is well balanced and pairs with the fruit really well. The drinkability is high and the red and black berry fruits are delicious. Elegance refinement and class also play their part in making this an excellent red, with no discernable leaness nor that cigar box oak character which imparts MR Cabernet. Currants fresh and with a light lift of spice follow through right to the end of the finish, waiting for the next glass to arrive and make its presence felt. Drink with pasta with eggplant and peas sauce.
Drink to 2015. About $110. 14.5%. 94/100 – Excellent.
Brokenwood Maxwell Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon 2005
Sourced from 30 year old vines from the Brokenback Range in the Hunter Valley, this aged Semillon is really hitting its straps. The dryness, lightness and herbal notes are complemented by the vigour of an inherent light nuttiness and spicy character,that then shows off the developed citrine flavours – lemons, limes, and green apple, fragrantly so, all coming through fulsomely and softer and later yet ever so flavoursome on the palate. The underlying honey, toastiness and nutty flavours, makes for beautiful drinking. Try this with ravioli with wild mushrooms.
11.0%. About $35. Drink to 2015. 93-94/100- Excellent.
